[sbkane]

I visited Meghalaya last June and here is an account - the first part. (will post remaining parts in stages)

A MEGHALAYAN SOJOURN

For someone who has visited Garhwal in Uttarakhand and done a few treks in that area, the recent visit to Shillong and nearby Khasi districts of Meghalaya, (our first visit to the North East), brought to mind the differences in the landscapes between these two mountainous regions of India.  The Uttarakhand hill stations, trekking routes and pilgrim centres are higher in altitude, typically 8-10 thousand feet above sea level, whereas in Meghalaya, the average altitude is about five thousand feet. The landscape of Uttarkahand-with snow-capped rugged mountains and the vast expanse of mountain ranges, deep gorges and valleys, gushing waters of mighty rivers, precariously perched roads on the steep slopes- is as magnificent as it is awe-inspiring. Meghalaya landscape is gentler in contrast but no less spectacular. Curvaceous mountains and hills carpeted by multi-hued luxurious vegetation, meandering rivers and rivulets, numerous waterfalls, placid lakes and little pretty villages along the roads coupled with bracing cool air present a feast for the eyes and provide a calming and relaxing milieu for the mind. And in the rainy season, clouds rolling over the hills and the valleys engulfing the entire landscape in a curtain of mist bestow the panorama with a mystic touch. We visited Meghalaya in early June when the monsoon was about to set in. At this time of the season, changing scenery is mesmerizing. One can just stand still and watch the panoramic kaleidoscope- Vapours of clouds swamping the scenery in a haze, followed after some time by gradual lifting of the haze curtain as the clouds pass over to the neighbouring hills, sudden showers and drizzles bathing the lush green slopes to a new freshness, sunrays opportunistically piercing the cover of clouds and illuminating the patches of greenery with sparkling brilliance. Our itinerary was organized by a dear family friend stationed at Shillong (with whom we had trekked in Garhwal mountains in the past) who had very thoughtfully chosen visits to places not generally in the lists of common and well-known tourists attractions.

Trekking along David Scott Trail
This 14 kM beautiful trek through forests and valleys, water streams and meadows past a pretty Khasi village was the highlight of our visit to Meghalaya. The trail is named after David Scott who was a British agent in early decades 19th century, responsible for looking after the interests of the East India Company in the North East region. He surveyed the area and laid a route collaborating with local rulers, spanning about 200 kM passing through areas that are now in Assam, Meghalaya and Bangladesh. Most of the original trail is now lost after building of proper roads over the years. The trail between Mawphlang and Lad Mawphlang in Cherapunji region, covering about 14 kM is a part of the original trail, which is still intact and offers a unique experience to trekkers to live through a bygone period, as the trail is unspoiled and still retains its pristine magnificence. We reached Mawphlang, which is about 30 kM from Shillong, around ten in the morning to undertake the trek. Before starting off the trek proper, we saw a couple of sights that are worth mentioning. One is the site of the Mawphlang dam built on the Umiew River that offers a splendid view of the valley, the river and a large lake formed by the dam, from the hilltop near the Guest House of the dam authority. There is a winding road interspersed with steps that leads to the dam site but as it was getting cloudy and we were keen to set off for the trek, we had to reluctantly drop the idea of going down up to the dam site, reserving it for a later date. This place is also famous for the Mawphlang Sacred Groves or Sacred Forest. Most part of Meghalaya, particularly Khasis areas, is sprinkled with these Sacred Groves, which stand out amidst the general vegetation as thick dark green, seemingly impregnable pockets of forests. These are ancient forests or groves revered and worshiped by Khasis and preserved by the local community since time immemorial. Any kind of exploitation or abuse of these sacred forests, like felling of trees or even as little as picking and cutting branches is strictly forbidden. Because of preservation of these forests for centuries, they are treasure troves of rare plants and herbs. Locals believe that the groves are protected by a deity that takes form of tiger or a serpent and punish the violators. Ritualistic Animal sacrifice is practised to worship and appease the deity, praying for protection and prosperity of the people. A local community leader, knowledgeable and English speaking, who accompanied us in the trek, related to us a story of man who inadvertently entered the sacred grove and cut some tree branches and as a consequence was punished by the God by inflicting an attack of paralysis. On repentance though, he was given a reprieve and his health restored. Any malafide defilement however, he explained, is meted with severe retribution. These sacred groves have played an important role in the lives of the community, both ritualistic and practical. As one person connected with Soil conservation department explained to us, these groves help conserve the soil and also entrap moisture feeding the ponds and rivulets that are sources of water for the local population. The origin of the sacred groves lies deep in unfathomable past. One can perhaps graciously attribute it to wisdom and sagacity of the ancestors who left an illustrious example of ecological conservation for the posterity to follow and emulate.
We began our trek from a small settlement of a few houses at the outskirts of Mawphlang.    This trek, referred to in the tourism brochures, is not too frequented though a few trekkers do come in winter. But the trek is not undertaken in monsoon season as streams on the way become impassable and the path gets slippery. This time was just the beginning of rains and our local friend-come-guide informed us that a wooden bridge on the main rivulet had been damaged and the alternate route was tricky and slippery owing to the recent rains. He offered to accompany us. A group of three more locals also volunteered to join us for any help that might be needed in negotiating a couple of tricky spots en-route. One among them was an 80-year-old local veteran. The trek begins as a narrow footpath and the first three odd kilometres is downhill along a valley with beautiful scenery of green slopes across. We could see a pretty waterfall on the slope across the valley like a thick white almost perfect vertical line running deep in to the steep valley, against a green background. Our friend told us of an incident of a local youth venturing down the slope with help of a rope near the waterfall to collect honey and dying out of fright when he looked down the steep gorge. There are varied species of trees on either side of the path and one could also occasionally spot white orchids flowers atop tree branches. Along this downhill path there is a gravestone a little to the right of the path, not easily visible from the path unless one is specifically looking for it. It is partly hidden behind grass and scrubs and the epitaph on the grave reads “ To dear child Camilla, Soft Silken Primrose Fading timelessly, year 1843”. Although nothing definite is known, it is believed that the child was daughter of an English missionary and a local girl, born out of wedlock, and our friend told us that the locals refrain from talking about the grave. Standing before the grave in the absolute quiet of the surroundings, a shadow of sorrow crosses one’s mind at the thought of this unfortunate child and possible tragic circumstances that lie buried here. As we resumed our descending journey, we could sense the approaching base of the valley as the sound of the river became increasingly clear and soon we could see it. A wooden bridge across the river (the Umiew) had been damaged and a make-shift bridge with wooden logs and boulders, laid across the current a little further away from the site of the original bridge, was the only way to cross the river. The last portion of the downhill approach path to this makeshift bridge was slippery due to rains and we had to do little bit of acrobatics to descend up to the crossing point. After a little climb beyond the river, there were another two small streams, which could be easily crossed, wading across and stepping on the boulders. We were warned that the area near the last stream was infested with leeches and were advised to walk rapidly without halting. A leech did indeed jump on the trousers of one of us as we were crossing the water and was quickly spotted and removed by one of our local friends. After the descend to the valley, the trek now starts uphill although the gradient is gradual and not steep.  It was cloudy but there were no drizzles as yet, the air was cool and bracing and it was an ideal setting to trek leisurely, gradually climbing up and halting once in a while to rest and enjoy the scenic beauty of the surroundings. There were a couple of small waterfalls along the path. On our right over another valley and behind us past the valley we had crossed, we could see haze of clouds drifting across the hills- a picture perfect sight!. We did not see any habitations till now nor did we meet any person. We did see though a couple of places where locals burn bamboo and other small trees to prepare charcoal, a sight that is common in large part of Meghalaya. We learnt that this charcoal manufacturing and the age-old traditional slash-and-burn or “jhum” agricultural practice are subjects of concern and debates amongst experts, environmentalists and government officials. As we reached the top of the climb, the ground became flat and even and a small village, rather a few huts came in sight. There was no sight of humans and only a dog acknowledged our presence by barking. But we were wrong – a group of about ten children were standing next to a small hut to our left a little distance away and were intently watching our approach. They were   standing so perfectly still and appeared to merge in the background that we could not notice them initially. They were standing neatly in two rows one behind other as if ready for a photograph. And when we took out our camera, the still picture suddenly broke in to motion and a few retreated in the hut, others hesitantly scattered. There is a small clear water stream that runs along the path and we saw two more children in the stream with fishing baskets. These fishing baskets are of conical shape made of woven bamboo strips and are traditional fishing equipment of the Khasis. This area is on a plateau and the path for the next couple of kilometres was flat. We soon came in sight of big rocks on either side of the path and a waterfall on our left. These rocks are really huge and one of the rocks had a circular through-hole in it- a nice spot for halting for a bite or tea before undertaking the last stretch of the trek. We halted a little further ahead at a small culvert with a bridge. Now it had started drizzling and we struggled with our rain jackets and umbrellas and it was rather awkward balancing on the wet and slippery path with opened umbrellas. Soon the whole area was covered in cloud haze, which came in from over the hilltop in front of us. Although getting drenched, we were thoroughly enjoying the experience, closed our umbrellas and let ourselves go with abandon. We saw a woman wearing a basket-cover over her head and going in opposite direction- perhaps to the village we had passed earlier. This last section of the trek is a bit of a climb till we reach the road at Lad Mawphlang. When we reached the main road, it had taken us about 5 hours after the start. It was still raining and we got in to our vehicle, which we had left at the start of the trek at Mawphlang and was now waiting here at Lad Mawphlang for us to take us to Cherapunji. It was one of the finest treks that we had done till now and the experience will remain in our memories forever.

[iwanttogoback]

sounds wonderful, i'm looking forward to cherapunji and all the rain.

are there photos?

[jyotirmoy]

Great write up Kane, please continue.
Reminds me of the mother of all treks that we had done together decades back thru the Belak bugiyal.

[priya]

I can't wait to read your next instalment.  Please don't keep us waiting too long.

[sbkane]

This is the remaing part of our Meghalayan sojourn. Tried to upload few photos but failed.
Nongkhum Island
This place is approached from Nongstoin, a district headquarters in the west Khasi hills.   River Kynchi flowing westwards bifurcates in to two rivulets and these two rejoin again further downstream and thus form a large river island. We first visited the Thum Fall on the southern stream, which is about 10 km from Nogstoin, reaching close to the fall by road, which is really a broadened footpath, and under repair and construction. The river flows in a rocky terrain and one can go down along the bank from where one can see the fall. There is a rickety wooden bridge that leads to the island. Our next halt was at the point where the river bifurcates. Here there is a vast expanse of meadows and at a distance are visible soft undulating hills and the river with a lake and sandy shores. One could also spot a sacred grove some distance away. The scenic beauty is magnificent. It would be an ideal place to pitch a tent and camp. We parked our vehicle at a small mound from where a footpath with a few steps lead to the lake in the river with clear sparkling water and a small beach. A wooden bridge with a flight of steps with steel railings can get you across the other side of the river and in to the island. After spending a few restful minutes on the beach, we crossed over to the island. A small footpath passing through overgrown bushes leads to the edge of a deep gorge from where is visible a beautiful fall (Weinia Fall). There is square railing constructed around the place at the edge which is barely large enough for five or six people to stand. A plaque in Khasi language on a small bench informs the visitor that the railing has been constructed after a local lad fell to his death at this point.
        
Mawkyrwat

Mawkyrwat, which is nearly 70 kM from Shillong, is a block headquarters in West Khasi district. The area surrounding the town is very picturesque. The Circuit House at Mawkyrwat offers a delightful view of mountain ranges all round and a rivulet flowing in a small ravine close by. We also saw a viewpoint past a pretty village just about 5 kM uphill drive from the town, from where one could see a beautiful valley with a river and a soft mountainous slope across the river, covered with a carpet of grass turf and trees, making a multihued pattern of light yellowish-green and dark green, akin to the camouflage pattern on a soldiers uniform. There was a short flight of steps that descended from this point and joined a pucca road to the riverbank and a bridge. Getting down from our vehicle and instructing the driver to follow us, we walked down this deserted road, inhaling the cool fresh air, our eyes feasting on the scenic splendour that lay unfolded before us. We spent some time on the bridge, some of us venturing down to the river water, before leaving the place. Some distance off the road from Mawkyrwat to Shillong, there is a place called Saw Symper, which a narrow rocky hill jutting out from the flat plateau of the surrounding. There is a cave at the bottom of the hill that can be accessed wading through a small stream. It was damp and deserted inside the cave. There was some graffiti on the wall and remnants of burnt wood indicating past visitors some of who had camped there. A steep trek uphill to the top of the hill offers a spectacular view of the surrounding areas. A small stream with clear water flows at the foot of the hill where we rested and had our lunch.      

Mawsynram

Mawsynram, a small village about 30 kM from Shillong has reportedly wrested away the title of the wettest place on Earth from the word famous Cherrapunji, just 20 kM away , and there is a running rivalry between these two places for the title. As we drove on the road to Mawsynram, we saw a wave of low clouds coming in from over the surrounding mountains and filling the gorges and swallowing up the lush green mountains.  Soon the entire region was engulfed in mist and as we were driving at a low speed with fog-lights on, it was an eerie feeling of sailing through the clouds and going nowhere. Soon it started raining and we saw a couple of waterfalls on the way. During the monsoon after receiving heavy rains, our driver told us, these waterfalls swell and preset a majestic sight, as we could very well imagine. We passed the Mawsymram town and could barely see some buildings. We stopped at the famous Mawsynram cave.  Stone steps lead in to the cave, which houses a stalagmite formation in the shape of Shivlinga. The cave is large and from one corner a streak of light is noticeable and one can hear sound of running stream from the depths. After spending some time in the cool and moist environ of the cave, we returned back, once again floating through the misty surrounding that lasted till we neared the main road to Shillong.


During the four days that we were in Meghalaya, we could see only a part of this beautiful land and what we saw was enough to convince us that the rest hold in store many more exciting places for the nature lover. Meghalaya is a place that needs to be seen at leisure and savoured in an unhurried manner. This also becomes unavoidable, as local public transport and accommodation facilities, particularly to little known but exotic places, are almost non-existent. One needs to hire a taxi and carry food and other provisions. Meghalaya has immense tourism potential. Paradoxically, one of the reasons that Meghalaya remains pristine and unspoilt is that the state has remained isolated from the Indian mainstream. Development of tourism is certainly needed that provides basic amenities to the tourist and a source of employment and income for the local population. But one is a little apprehensive in using terms such as “tourist industry” because this has become synonymous with crass commercialisation that has lead to defilement of the landscape and corruption of the local culture at too many places in India. To develop tourism blended seamlessly with local culture and customs and without letting it deteriorate in concrete jungles of rampant constructions, cacophony of vehicular traffic and filth left by hordes of callous and insensitive tourists is a challenge. One enthusiastic young civil servant we met was trying to propagate bed-and-breakfast tourism with direct involvement of locals, which perhaps could prove to be successful. I am no expert on tourism but a mere lover of nature who would like to see better facilities in the next visit, but certainly not at the cost of any defilement of this beautiful land.