[Yashodhara]

We are thinking of going to Shimla and Darjeeling in January 2008, what should we expect weather wise? Of course we would like to see some great mountain sceneries and also hope to visit a tea plantation. Can you please tell me if it is sensible to visit these places in January? Thanks in advance.

[YETI]

Not sure about Shimla, Yash, but I would've thought that Darjeeling would be OK.

The Himalayan Haze tends to set in when it's humid at lower altitude - if you get up early enough you normally get a couple of hours of good views before the air heats up and the mountains disappear. In January this shouldn't be so much of a problem. However, January might be worse for actual cloud cover then (rather than humidity haze) - which would obviously have the same result.

Kanchenjunga seems to put in fewer appearances these days so give yourself a few days to stay in Darjeeling. I'd been there for 3 days (in April) before Kanchenjunga appeared for the first time. Mind you, Shimla wasn't that different - I was there for 5 days and didn't see the mountains once.

I wonder how much of this haze is a modern-day problem and how much is caused by the dust and pollution created by cars. I read recently that the first Survey of the Himalayas was performed entirely from down on the plains in India (Nepal was still closed to foreigners at the time) with remarkably accurate results. That would be impossible these days - you rarely see the Himalayas from Siliguri / New Jalpaiguri now.

[Yashodhara]

Thanks for your response, Doc, that is very helpful. We would probably not have more than 3 days each in Shimla and Darjeeling, so I guess we will have to think about our itinerary again. Maybe we should skip one place to give ourselves more time in the other one. Anyone else who visited Shimla or Darjeeling in January?

[Judi]

Yes, I spent about 4 days in Darjeeling in early January a few of years ago.  Really early January - we were there for New Year's Eve!

The weather was clear and gorgeous - although it had been snowing a couple of days before we got there.  Kanchenjunga was visible all the time, and is indescribably  beautiful, plus we got a glorious view of the Himalayas at dawn from Tiger Hill  

It was a magical few days, and I would recommend the trip (plus the time of year) to anyone.

[jyotirmoy]

I have been to Shimla in winter many times. It was sunny & clear blue sky. Some of my friends been to Darjeeling during X-Mas and had clear weather. Dr. you are right some thing has happened. During my school days the view from Darjeeling & Kurseong(where we often spent holidays) was superb. From our living room window in Kurseong we could see the Teesta shining like a strip of silver. Now catching a glimpse of Kanchenjunga is like being lucky to spot a tiger in a reserve.

[Yashodhara]

Hi Judi, your report is very encouraging! My mountain loving husband will be more than pleased. How did you make the trip, did you go by train or plane? And did you spend 4 full days in Darjeeling or was that transport time included? Also I would be interested in any suggestions on what to do and where to go in Darjeeling, hotels, restaurants, day trips etc. Tiger Hill is on top of the list too of course   .

Jyoti-Da, sunny and clear blue sky in Shimla sounds perfect! We don't mind the cold as long as we can enjoy the scenery...

[jyotirmoy]

From Kolkata regular bus service is available, overnight trains too to reach New Jalpaiguri. Fron New Jalpaiguri share taxis, buses are available. From Delhi one can take the superfast exp. train to New Jalpaiguri, the route is very long. Better is to take a flight from Delhi to Bagdogra and then by road to Darjeeling.
Visit the Botanical gardens, and mountaineering institute. Have sandwitches, saussages & milk shakes at the Keventers. I hope our good ole Glenarry's still funtioning.
Sun rise from Tiger Hill is an experience.

[YETI]

I stayed at The Aliment in Darjeeling, a brilliant little budget guesthouse.

Review here.

Glenarry's was still up and running last year - they do good fry up breakfasts and proper afternoon tea.

I love Darjeeling; much prefer it to Shimla which I found tacky and touristy in the extreme - there's more info on what I like about Darjeeling here.

[Yashodhara]

Doc, your photos always have a way of leaving me speechless! The Aliment sounds like a great place, thanks for the info and your Darjeeling report too, very good read (as usual).

[ChrisJ]

I also spent New Year in Darjeeling. Perfect weather conditions too!

Not a huge amount happens on new years eve there - but on new years day loads of people go up to the top of Tiger hill to have a big picnic party. If you are there on that date its worth a trip. Lots of people selling momos and beer. The perfect combination!

I stayed at the belle View hotel. Here is a 3D view from the roof:

http://www.world-her...levueHotel.html

Attached is a picture of the mountains in early Jan. (Assuming I have worked out how to do it correctly!)

Chris.

Attached Files

•  New_Image105.JPG   26.78K   20 downloads

[Yashodhara]

Great pic, ChrisJ, and the 3D view is awesome too! Unfortunately we will not be able to spend New Year's in Darjeeling, but a picnic still sounds wonderful.

[torryquine]

Judi, on Jun 11 2007, 09:52 AM, said:

Yes, I spent about 4 days in Darjeeling in early January a few of years ago.  Really early January - we were there for New Year's Eve!

The weather was clear and gorgeous - although it had been snowing a couple of days before we got there.  Kanchenjunga was visible all the time, and is indescribably  beautiful, plus we got a glorious view of the Himalayas at dawn from Tiger Hill  

It was a magical few days, and I would recommend the trip (plus the time of year) to anyone.

Judi and I missed eachother by a couple of days - my husband and myself were there early January the same year, so not surprisingly we had the same experience weather wise.  

Regarding your enquiry about tea plantations - you will certainly find plenty of them around Darjeeling, but you may find that they have just finished a harvest and are in preparations for the next one.  So - the girls out in the tea bushes will be pruning (with impressively large knives) rather than picking, which can leave the estates looking rather bare.  And the factories will have stopped all the tea-making processes and will be stripping down the machinery for repair/servicing.  Don't let this put you off - they are still very interesting places to visit.

We loved the freindly atmosphere of Darjeeling and it remains one of our favourite places in India.

[Judi]

I've still got a nasty feeling that TQ was on the train up whilst we were on the train down

We travelled by overnight train from Kolkata to New Jalpaiguri, and intended to take the Toy Train up to Darjeeling.  Because of fog on the plain ( a common occurence at that time of year) our train was over 7 hours late, therefore we had missed the Toy Train by many, many hours.  However, we hired a jeep (not a shared one, as we were the only ones travelling up to Darj on New Year's Eve) which took about 3 hours.  We arrived in Darjeeling just after sunset, with the most glorious view of Kanchenjunga, a midnight blue sky and stars that looked as if they had been painted on!

On the first night we stayed at the Windamere Hotel - which we did not enjoy, but a drink on their terrace is a high-priced must if you want to experience a flash-back to the days of the Raj!  After that we stayed at the New Elgin, the oldest hotel in Darjeeling, and very very comfortable, although quite expensive by Indian standards.  The owner, Diamond Oberoi, is from the famous Oberoi hotel chain family, but decided to strike out on his own.  For a blow-out, it really is a glorious place, with roaring log fires and plenty of blankets and hot water-bottles at that time of year.  

We stayed at the New Elgin for 3 further nights, before taking the Toy Train back down to NJP.  The journey took 8 hours and was absolutely unforgettable ..... one of my most special memories!  The Oberoi's made us a delicious packed lunch and Mr Judi bought coffee at the station when we stopped for 20 minutes in Kurseong.  We then got a rickshaw to change stations and get the night train back to Kolkata.

We didn't venture very far from Darjeeling, preferring to enjoy walking round the town and through the tea gardens to the Tibetan colony.  The bazaar is fascinating, too - and we loved the clean, spacious zoo where the animals are kept in beautiful conditions.

[YETI]

I like that panorama, Chris.

The view from the roof of The Aliment is similar - you're a little bit further up the ridge from there.

The rest of my Darjeeling photos are here for anyone that's interested.

Ace place - I loved it there.

[Hippie at Heart]

Simla in December end/ New Year is a place that should be avoided like plague. I wont go anywhere near simla between 20th and 5th January. The official date for snow fall is 22 - 24 December and New Year hooligans usually don’t leave before 5th of January. There is no guarantee that views will be clear on any particular days around that time but weather usually clears out and settles by mid January.

But late October and November beginning is the surest time when you have azure skies and clearest weather. But even if in January you stick around for a while you will get to see great hills side from Mall Road. It will be a good idea to avoid staying very near mall road, instead explore possibilities of good comfortable stay on the out skirts of town.

[ChrisJ]

Dr Funkenstein, on Jun 11 2007, 04:26 PM, said:

I like that panorama, Chris.

The view from the roof of The Aliment is similar - you're a little bit further up the ridge from there.

The rest of my Darjeeling photos are here for anyone that's interested.

Ace place - I loved it there.

Yeah - I was amazed to see a 3d pic of a hotel I had actually stayed in! I think someone on here originally posted the link to the 3d website.  Clever stuff. I still cant work out how its done though!

I would also rate Darjeeling well above Shimla.

Reading Hippie at Hearts post above, I wonder if Xmas and new year celebrations are rowdy throughout Himachal hill stations? I spent Xmas/New Year in Dharamsala and it was loud chaos there too! (Not in a bad/violent way though - mostly large TATA 4x4s with booming stereos)

Chris.

Edited by ChrisJ, 12 June 2007 - 01:37 AM.

[Yashodhara]

Many thanks for all your replies, that is much more info than I had hoped for!

Judi, that must have been a wonderful trip. I hope we will enjoy our time in Darjeeling as much as you did. We are considering taking the overnight train to Kolkata, but having no experience with overnight trains at all I am a bit worried. Okay, this might sound ridiculous to some of you, but can one sleep well in the train   ?

Most of you seem to rate Darjeeling above Shimla, so I am wondering whether we should skip Shimla and spend a few days in Rajasthan instead. The New Year hooligans scenario is kind of scary …

TQ and Judi, do you have plans to return to Darjeeling in January? From what you all have to say about Darjeeling, it must surely be a beautiful and relaxed place, now I cannot wait to go   !!!

[Judi]

No concrete plans yet, Yash - but plenty of wishes!  We will definitely go back there, though - I loved it.

I can't honestly say I sleep well on trains at all, but they are certainly fascinating places to be.  It was our first experience of overnight train travel in India and I must admit, it did make us change our plans somewhat!!!!!  We had booked 2non-AC tickets (i.e. 2nd class, non-air conditioned), but didn't find it very comfortable, so for the rest of our trips by train we travelled First Class or 1AC.  Not because we needed the air conditioning at that time of year, but simply because the most expensive tickets were, not unnaturally, for the most comfortable seats.  

Call me a wuss, call me a wimp - what you will (no Malkers, that does not give you carte blanche to verbally abuse me   )  but I'm too old and my holidays too precious to 'rough it' just because some people think you are not getting to experience the 'true India' if you travel with a modicum of comfort.

My advice would be to buy the best seats you can afford, and enjoy the unique experience of overmight train travel.  If time is tight, then fly to Bagdogra and take a jeep from there ...... but make sure you take an excursion on the Toy Train, it really shouldn't be missed.  

[jyotirmoy]

Take the toy train from Darjeeling & visit the Monastery at Ghum.
2AC 2 Tier is comfortable enough for overnight journeys.

[torryquine]

Yashodhara, on Jun 12 2007, 09:52 AM, said:

TQ and Judi, do you have plans to return to Darjeeling in January? From what you all have to say about Darjeeling, it must surely be a beautiful and relaxed place, now I cannot wait to go   !!!

Not this year, but certainly we'd love to go back.    Next time I should make arrangements with Judi to ensure we are there at the same time!  We stayed at the Cedar Inn - a little bit up the hill from the main town, just above the railway station (you can hear the toot of the engines) - and highly recommend it - all of the rooms have stunning views of Kangjenjunga.

Ditto what Judi says about trains - go for the best you can afford.  We find 2nd class AC is fine - but then I have a reputation for being able to sleep draped over a washing line.  The only thing I will say about it is that on our last trip, my husband noticed that if I slept on the lower bunk, men would come past our cubicle and stare at me - this didn't happen if I used the top bunk.