An absolutely brilliant read,,,,,,,,,,,,,Live the dream man, Live the dream,,,,,,,,,
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HowieUK's Trip
Started by
HowieUK
, Aug 27 2006 12:19 PM
59 replies to this topic
#41
Seventies'Neil
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Posted 12 September 2006 - 04:23 PM
An absolutely brilliant read,,,,,,,,,,,,,Live the dream man, Live the dream,,,,,,,,,
#42
HowieUK
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Posted 12 September 2006 - 04:54 PM
Sh*t forget that!
Neil is back from wherever!
Great Man!!!!
Howie
Neil is back from wherever!
Great Man!!!!
Howie
#43
Seventies'Neil
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Posted 12 September 2006 - 04:59 PM
HowieUK, on Sep 12 2006, 12:24 PM, said:
Sh*t forget that!
Neil is back from wherever!
Great Man!!!!
Howie
Neil is back from wherever!
Great Man!!!!
Howie
Thanks Man & Happy Birthday,,,,,,, you old hippy you
#44
Ray kelleher
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Posted 13 September 2006 - 03:27 PM
Well hope that you had a great Birthday mate, and that the hangover at altitude was not too fierce.. So when you going to up-load some photos then ? would love to see the bike for instance.. keep on trucking bud..
Ray
Ray
Travel lightly......
#45
HowieUK
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Posted 18 September 2006 - 02:10 PM
Hi All,
Guess I'ts time I wrote about the trip back from Leh to Manali.
I filled up with petrol the day before I was to depart Leh and filled an extra two, two litre PET bottles with fuel, as most of you know there is no Petrol station between Leh and Tandi which is even passed Keylong apart from a possibility of picking some up in Sarchu that is rumoured to be adulterated!
I met two British bikers at the petrol station and we made plans to meet up in Sarchu as I was setting out at 7am from Leh (too early for them!)
I was wondering what I had let myself in for as I was half thinking of staying in Pang but I had made plans now so would try to reach Sarchu
The road was a hell of a lot drier on the return journey and I was feeling quite cocky about it and sailed through Rumptse, where I had been forced to stop for snow and rain on the outward journey!
The road starts to rise from Rumptse upwards 35Km to the top of Tanglang La at 5360m the highest point on the road. It gradually gets colder as you climb, I mean finger numbing cold starts to set in.
You cannot take this pass fpr granted! 13km from the top it started to snow lightly, well a mixture of sleet and snow, stinging the face, as true to the Enfield's history I was wearing an open-face helmet.
Just before the top I was stopped by the army and road workers for 10 minutes. I didn't know why, Suddenly two young road workers ran for cover behind a big rock and a few secons later there was an almighty bang that scared the living daylights out of me! - They were blasting, once the echoes had died down they let us pass.
At the top I punched the air with delight! An Indian guy standing by a lorry smiled at me knowing the journey to the top is not an easy one. I only stayed at the top for about a minute, there were a few lorries parked up and someone was ringing the bells outside the small temple. I pulled off on the journey down, fighting back tears - emotion swept over me for 10 minutes on the descent, but of course concentration on the road finally suppressed that emotion as anything but full concentration on the road is not possible.
This was a cold day and I eventually got to the bottom of Taglang La and started the journey across the Moray Plains desert.
Other people have spoken about these plains (Doc!) and I was priviledged to see a whirlwind sand mini tornado about 100m away. Seen a couple more too but the close one made me laugh, thinking of the shot in the Photo gallery (Thank's again Doc!)
Eventually reached Pang where I did the Police form stuff and had half an hour drinking Chi with the people I had stayed with on the outward journey.
Decided to carry on to Sarchu, but you have two big passes to go over before reaching there, Lachuglang La which rises to 5019m and Nakeela La rising to 4740m. This journey is hard going on yourself and your bike with lots of loose stones and gravel, potholes, mud etc and took me three hours to complete the journey from Pang to Sarchu, a distance of only 80km.
More to Follow Tuesday
Howie
Guess I'ts time I wrote about the trip back from Leh to Manali.
I filled up with petrol the day before I was to depart Leh and filled an extra two, two litre PET bottles with fuel, as most of you know there is no Petrol station between Leh and Tandi which is even passed Keylong apart from a possibility of picking some up in Sarchu that is rumoured to be adulterated!
I met two British bikers at the petrol station and we made plans to meet up in Sarchu as I was setting out at 7am from Leh (too early for them!)
I was wondering what I had let myself in for as I was half thinking of staying in Pang but I had made plans now so would try to reach Sarchu
The road was a hell of a lot drier on the return journey and I was feeling quite cocky about it and sailed through Rumptse, where I had been forced to stop for snow and rain on the outward journey!
The road starts to rise from Rumptse upwards 35Km to the top of Tanglang La at 5360m the highest point on the road. It gradually gets colder as you climb, I mean finger numbing cold starts to set in.
You cannot take this pass fpr granted! 13km from the top it started to snow lightly, well a mixture of sleet and snow, stinging the face, as true to the Enfield's history I was wearing an open-face helmet.
Just before the top I was stopped by the army and road workers for 10 minutes. I didn't know why, Suddenly two young road workers ran for cover behind a big rock and a few secons later there was an almighty bang that scared the living daylights out of me! - They were blasting, once the echoes had died down they let us pass.
At the top I punched the air with delight! An Indian guy standing by a lorry smiled at me knowing the journey to the top is not an easy one. I only stayed at the top for about a minute, there were a few lorries parked up and someone was ringing the bells outside the small temple. I pulled off on the journey down, fighting back tears - emotion swept over me for 10 minutes on the descent, but of course concentration on the road finally suppressed that emotion as anything but full concentration on the road is not possible.
This was a cold day and I eventually got to the bottom of Taglang La and started the journey across the Moray Plains desert.
Other people have spoken about these plains (Doc!) and I was priviledged to see a whirlwind sand mini tornado about 100m away. Seen a couple more too but the close one made me laugh, thinking of the shot in the Photo gallery (Thank's again Doc!)
Eventually reached Pang where I did the Police form stuff and had half an hour drinking Chi with the people I had stayed with on the outward journey.
Decided to carry on to Sarchu, but you have two big passes to go over before reaching there, Lachuglang La which rises to 5019m and Nakeela La rising to 4740m. This journey is hard going on yourself and your bike with lots of loose stones and gravel, potholes, mud etc and took me three hours to complete the journey from Pang to Sarchu, a distance of only 80km.
More to Follow Tuesday
Howie
#46
Judi
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Posted 18 September 2006 - 02:15 PM
John, it all sunds so exciting!!!! Due to injury my biking days are over ..... but I really do wish I could be doing this trip with you right now. 
Tell us more ....... tell us more ........
Tell us more ....... tell us more ........
It's better to light a candle than complain about the darkness
#47
priya
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Posted 18 September 2006 - 02:59 PM
Judi, on Sep 18 2006, 10:45 AM, said:
John, it all sunds so exciting!!!! Due to injury my biking days are over ..... but I really do wish I could be doing this trip with you right now. 
Tell us more ....... tell us more ........
Tell us more ....... tell us more ........
It really sounds as though you're having a wonderful time - Keep on biking and keep us posted!!!!
Judi........I'm just trying to picture you on an Enfield
'Their people will judge them on what they can build and not what they destroy.
To those who cling to power through corruption and deceit and the silencing of dissent,
know that you are on the wrong side of history; but that we will extend a hand if you are
willing to unclench your fist." ~ Barack Obama.
Zimbabwe News!
City of Kings! Photos.
Our Shame.
To those who cling to power through corruption and deceit and the silencing of dissent,
know that you are on the wrong side of history; but that we will extend a hand if you are
willing to unclench your fist." ~ Barack Obama.
Zimbabwe News!
City of Kings! Photos.
Our Shame.
#48
Judi
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Posted 18 September 2006 - 03:06 PM
priya, on Sep 18 2006, 10:29 AM, said:
It really sounds as though you're having a wonderful time - Keep on biking and keep us posted!!!!
Judi........I'm just trying to picture you on an Enfield
Judi........I'm just trying to picture you on an Enfield
A BMW RS100 actually
Just clinging on the back I hasten to add - I had just started to learn to ride an MV Augusta when I was injured and had to stop both riding solo and as pillion 
Never been on an Enfield sadly
It's better to light a candle than complain about the darkness
#49
kullukid
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Posted 18 September 2006 - 03:08 PM
priya, on Sep 18 2006, 10:29 AM, said:
It really sounds as though you're having a wonderful time - Keep on biking and keep us posted!!!!
Judi........I'm just trying to picture you on an Enfield
Judi........I'm just trying to picture you on an Enfield
In Serious Leather!!!!!!
KK
#50
Judi
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Posted 18 September 2006 - 06:15 PM
kullukid, on Sep 18 2006, 10:38 AM, said:
In Serious Leather!!!!!! KK
KKI haven't always been 'traditionally built' and middle-aged, you cheeky bugger
It's better to light a candle than complain about the darkness
#51
HowieUK
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Posted 19 September 2006 - 01:56 PM
Wow Judy, didn't know you had a biking background 
I had set out from Leh at 7.00am and arrived at Sarchu at 4.30pm, stopping for about an hour during that time so about 8 1/2 hours in the saddle.
The guys never arrived at Sarchu that night as I pulled into one of the first tents and only one bike came past a couple of hours later.
The owners of the tents were from Manali/Nepal/ Tibet, so I assume the Sarchu tents home base is Manali as the Pang tents were all based in Leh. Asked for a price and was told 50rps, the same price as the other 2 tents I stayed in at Pang and Rumtse. Half a dozen French people turned up an hour or so later in a 4WD they had hired for the trip from Manali to Leh. Their driver negotiated the price for them and they each got charged 100rps.
A bad nights sleep was had once again, cold and damp in the tents with the inevitable need (probably my age!) to get up for the loo in the night and get even colder, but looking at the stars is probably worth this inconvenience, no lights to supress the view so for a City boy an amazing sight!
The next morning I waved off the French travellers and took my time getting the bike packed, eventually leaving at 8.00am. I was only travelling to Keylong (105km from Sarchu) and expected just over 4 hours for the journey. I was being optimistic as the journey took me 6 1/2 hours with a half hour break.
There's one high pass Baralacha La at 4830m, but the road conditions are pretty dire. Protection of me and the bike are my first priorities. A puncture would be a nightmare but luckily I didn't get one, but cautious speed to keep the bike in top condition and to avoid the 4x4's coming the other way were my main concern.
Arrived eventually in Keylong and spent two nights in the Tashi Deleg hotel to recover from the previous two days. At 400rps a night with negotiation, a little pricey for what you get but ok and somewhere to park the bike.
By the time I set out for Manali from Keylong I had lost track of the days, and didn't realise it was Saturday.
Keylong - Manali is a similar distance as Sarchu - Keylong, in the book it says 113km. I had stopped guessing what time it would take me and once again it took over 6 hours. Just as I was getting towards the top of the Rohtang pass, my accelerator cable snapped! sh*t, I hadn't changed anything like that since I was a kid. I did have a spare and after much cursing and dropping bits on the floor, I managed to 'bodge' it to get me back to Manali. Once over the top of the Rohtang pass, it seemed like half of Manali was out for the day for the view, donkey rides, and basically a bit of a party atmosphere - with the posh showing off their 4x4's. I felt slightly cheated especially halfway down being held up in a traffic jam for 15 minutes (road workers laying tarmac!)
Anyway made it ok to Manali and am staying in Vashist in the Bhrigu Hotel next door to the Arohi. At half the price of the Arohi at 300rps a night I think its brilliant value especially as I've been able to catch up with the sport etc on the box! (cable TV)
I will be here for a while, maybe until next Monday as I don't fancy travelling at the weekend (too much traffic!)
Travelling time on the bike Leh - Manali was 20 hours on the road (Not including stops!)
Did I enjoy the experience? A resounding YES!
Would I do it again? At the moment, a resounding NO!
Howie
I had set out from Leh at 7.00am and arrived at Sarchu at 4.30pm, stopping for about an hour during that time so about 8 1/2 hours in the saddle.
The guys never arrived at Sarchu that night as I pulled into one of the first tents and only one bike came past a couple of hours later.
The owners of the tents were from Manali/Nepal/ Tibet, so I assume the Sarchu tents home base is Manali as the Pang tents were all based in Leh. Asked for a price and was told 50rps, the same price as the other 2 tents I stayed in at Pang and Rumtse. Half a dozen French people turned up an hour or so later in a 4WD they had hired for the trip from Manali to Leh. Their driver negotiated the price for them and they each got charged 100rps.
A bad nights sleep was had once again, cold and damp in the tents with the inevitable need (probably my age!) to get up for the loo in the night and get even colder, but looking at the stars is probably worth this inconvenience, no lights to supress the view so for a City boy an amazing sight!
The next morning I waved off the French travellers and took my time getting the bike packed, eventually leaving at 8.00am. I was only travelling to Keylong (105km from Sarchu) and expected just over 4 hours for the journey. I was being optimistic as the journey took me 6 1/2 hours with a half hour break.
There's one high pass Baralacha La at 4830m, but the road conditions are pretty dire. Protection of me and the bike are my first priorities. A puncture would be a nightmare but luckily I didn't get one, but cautious speed to keep the bike in top condition and to avoid the 4x4's coming the other way were my main concern.
Arrived eventually in Keylong and spent two nights in the Tashi Deleg hotel to recover from the previous two days. At 400rps a night with negotiation, a little pricey for what you get but ok and somewhere to park the bike.
By the time I set out for Manali from Keylong I had lost track of the days, and didn't realise it was Saturday.
Keylong - Manali is a similar distance as Sarchu - Keylong, in the book it says 113km. I had stopped guessing what time it would take me and once again it took over 6 hours. Just as I was getting towards the top of the Rohtang pass, my accelerator cable snapped! sh*t, I hadn't changed anything like that since I was a kid. I did have a spare and after much cursing and dropping bits on the floor, I managed to 'bodge' it to get me back to Manali. Once over the top of the Rohtang pass, it seemed like half of Manali was out for the day for the view, donkey rides, and basically a bit of a party atmosphere - with the posh showing off their 4x4's. I felt slightly cheated especially halfway down being held up in a traffic jam for 15 minutes (road workers laying tarmac!)
Anyway made it ok to Manali and am staying in Vashist in the Bhrigu Hotel next door to the Arohi. At half the price of the Arohi at 300rps a night I think its brilliant value especially as I've been able to catch up with the sport etc on the box! (cable TV)
I will be here for a while, maybe until next Monday as I don't fancy travelling at the weekend (too much traffic!)
Travelling time on the bike Leh - Manali was 20 hours on the road (Not including stops!)
Did I enjoy the experience? A resounding YES!
Would I do it again? At the moment, a resounding NO!
Howie
#52
priya
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Posted 19 September 2006 - 03:13 PM
Quote
Would I do it again? At the moment, a resounding NO!
I guess we'll have to wait until those batteries are recharged huh??!!!
'Their people will judge them on what they can build and not what they destroy.
To those who cling to power through corruption and deceit and the silencing of dissent,
know that you are on the wrong side of history; but that we will extend a hand if you are
willing to unclench your fist." ~ Barack Obama.
Zimbabwe News!
City of Kings! Photos.
Our Shame.
To those who cling to power through corruption and deceit and the silencing of dissent,
know that you are on the wrong side of history; but that we will extend a hand if you are
willing to unclench your fist." ~ Barack Obama.
Zimbabwe News!
City of Kings! Photos.
Our Shame.
#53
HowieUK
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Posted 20 September 2006 - 02:40 PM
Yes!
Battery re-charge may take a while to get any enthusiasm back for a journey like that again! But I am glad I did it once anyway!
Howie
Battery re-charge may take a while to get any enthusiasm back for a journey like that again! But I am glad I did it once anyway!
Howie
#54
kullukid
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Posted 20 September 2006 - 02:47 PM
HowieUK, on Sep 20 2006, 10:10 AM, said:
Yes!
Battery re-charge may take a while to get any enthusiasm back for a journey like that again! But I am glad I did it once anyway!
Howie
Battery re-charge may take a while to get any enthusiasm back for a journey like that again! But I am glad I did it once anyway!
Howie
& Vasisht is the perfect place to plug in & charge up Howie? & then where ? Parvati? Jalori pass? KK
#55
priya
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Posted 20 September 2006 - 04:09 PM
HowieUK, on Sep 20 2006, 11:10 AM, said:
Yes!
Battery re-charge may take a while to get any enthusiasm back for a journey like that again! But I am glad I did it once anyway!
Howie
Battery re-charge may take a while to get any enthusiasm back for a journey like that again! But I am glad I did it once anyway!
Howie
You must've wondered what the heck you were doing at the time, but what a sense of accomplishment you must be feeling now!!!!
'Their people will judge them on what they can build and not what they destroy.
To those who cling to power through corruption and deceit and the silencing of dissent,
know that you are on the wrong side of history; but that we will extend a hand if you are
willing to unclench your fist." ~ Barack Obama.
Zimbabwe News!
City of Kings! Photos.
Our Shame.
To those who cling to power through corruption and deceit and the silencing of dissent,
know that you are on the wrong side of history; but that we will extend a hand if you are
willing to unclench your fist." ~ Barack Obama.
Zimbabwe News!
City of Kings! Photos.
Our Shame.
#56
Hippie at Heart
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Posted 20 September 2006 - 05:07 PM
Howie, glad to know that you really had a blast there; I know where you coming from when you say that you kinda had enough for now! That’s was I say every time am through that route, but trouble starts when you hit home turf and start day dreaming again about Tanglunga La Baba .. Boom Shankar ! 
Hippie is a State of Mind; not a cult of Bounders.
#57
vinayverma
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Posted 22 September 2006 - 09:37 AM
Hey Howie, great to read your posts. Sorry for not keeping in touch. I've been traveling a bit myself. First to Mumbai, then Vietnam, then Thailand, and then Chennai..last few weeks for me have been on planes and airports, while you were star gazing in Sarchu, Leh, and pang.
Good to hear that you had a great time and look forward to meet you again when you're back in Delhi.
while in Vashist, did you meet the enfiled service station guy Anu?
Good to hear that you had a great time and look forward to meet you again when you're back in Delhi.
while in Vashist, did you meet the enfiled service station guy Anu?
#58
HowieUK
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Posted 22 September 2006 - 12:00 PM
rHi Vinay,
Anu was in Leh when I first arrived in Manala, so his partner took care of my Bike!
I've since met him as I had another 'quick' service when I arrived back in Manali after Leh.
A glutton for punishment I have decided to return to Delhi via the Lahaul and Spiti valley as long as the weather holds out. So it's back up the Rohtang pass and swing a right at Gramphoo travelling through Losar, Kaza and tabo before joining the main 22 road to Shimla. Don't think I'll be setting out until Wednesday as I'm enjoying chillin here in Vashisht.
See you in Delhi soon
Howie
Anu was in Leh when I first arrived in Manala, so his partner took care of my Bike!
I've since met him as I had another 'quick' service when I arrived back in Manali after Leh.
A glutton for punishment I have decided to return to Delhi via the Lahaul and Spiti valley as long as the weather holds out. So it's back up the Rohtang pass and swing a right at Gramphoo travelling through Losar, Kaza and tabo before joining the main 22 road to Shimla. Don't think I'll be setting out until Wednesday as I'm enjoying chillin here in Vashisht.
See you in Delhi soon
Howie
vinayverma, on Sep 22 2006, 05:07 AM, said:
Hey Howie, great to read your posts. Sorry for not keeping in touch. I've been traveling a bit myself. First to Mumbai, then Vietnam, then Thailand, and then Chennai..last few weeks for me have been on planes and airports, while you were star gazing in Sarchu, Leh, and pang.
Good to hear that you had a great time and look forward to meet you again when you're back in Delhi.
while in Vashist, did you meet the enfiled service station guy Anu?
Good to hear that you had a great time and look forward to meet you again when you're back in Delhi.
while in Vashist, did you meet the enfiled service station guy Anu?
#59
kullukid
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Posted 22 September 2006 - 02:08 PM
HowieUK, on Sep 22 2006, 07:30 AM, said:
rHi Vinay,
Anu was in Leh when I first arrived in Manala, so his partner took care of my Bike!
I've since met him as I had another 'quick' service when I arrived back in Manali after Leh.
A glutton for punishment I have decided to return to Delhi via the Lahaul and Spiti valley as long as the weather holds out. So it's back up the Rohtang pass and swing a right at Gramphoo travelling through Losar, Kaza and tabo before joining the main 22 road to Shimla. Don't think I'll be setting out until Wednesday as I'm enjoying chillin here in Vashisht.
See you in Delhi soon
Howie
Anu was in Leh when I first arrived in Manala, so his partner took care of my Bike!
I've since met him as I had another 'quick' service when I arrived back in Manali after Leh.
A glutton for punishment I have decided to return to Delhi via the Lahaul and Spiti valley as long as the weather holds out. So it's back up the Rohtang pass and swing a right at Gramphoo travelling through Losar, Kaza and tabo before joining the main 22 road to Shimla. Don't think I'll be setting out until Wednesday as I'm enjoying chillin here in Vashisht.
See you in Delhi soon
Howie
Hi Howie, , are you sure the Spiti route is open all the way round to the Kinnaur valley? I know it was closed in august due to the lack of bridges over rivers, they had massive floods again this year. Might be worth checking with someone in the know, like Avid or AndreasW or try contacting Dhananjay on IM he knows this route like the back of his hand & always as the latest info. Cheers KK
#60
HowieUK
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Posted 23 September 2006 - 10:56 AM
A group came through this route on Enfields last Monday and reported the road in good condition!
Also a single traveller on a BMW bike travelled this route to Dhankar and returned to Manali yesterday reporting the road in V. Good condition.
He was doing a 'recee' as he is taking part in the "Raid -De-Himalayas"
http://www.raid-de-himalaya.com/
The only concern is the 'Inner Line Permit' required between Sumdo in Spiti and Morang in Kinnaur.
I think usually a single traveller would be allowed one but in theory a group of four is required. I read its best to get the permit in Kaza but that's a long way to re-trace steps from if its turned down due to a whim of an official.
Also a single traveller on a BMW bike travelled this route to Dhankar and returned to Manali yesterday reporting the road in V. Good condition.
He was doing a 'recee' as he is taking part in the "Raid -De-Himalayas"
http://www.raid-de-himalaya.com/
The only concern is the 'Inner Line Permit' required between Sumdo in Spiti and Morang in Kinnaur.
I think usually a single traveller would be allowed one but in theory a group of four is required. I read its best to get the permit in Kaza but that's a long way to re-trace steps from if its turned down due to a whim of an official.
kullukid, on Sep 22 2006, 09:38 AM, said:
Hi Howie, , are you sure the Spiti route is open all the way round to the Kinnaur valley? I know it was closed in august due to the lack of bridges over rivers, they had massive floods again this year. Might be worth checking with someone in the know, like Avid or AndreasW or try contacting Dhananjay on IM he knows this route like the back of his hand & always as the latest info. Cheers KK
