[sonomama]

Hi everyone. We've been having a heavy rain for 2 days in a row, and we always have a muggy, depressing weather this time of the year in Japan anyway, and I envy you all who are enjoying sunny and dry summer days.

I'm going to Ladakh by way of the Shimla-Rekong Peo-Tabo-Kaza route starting in the last week of August, reaching Leh in the first week of September. I've read somewhere on the net that in the high season in June and July the bus from Manali to Leh is already fully packed and sometimes you can't get a seat in Keylong. Does this situation apply even in September? Should I go from Kaza to Manali instead of Keylong, starting my bus journey from there?

Sonomama

[kullukid]

Hi, I did Leh to Manali 2 septembers ago & when I enquired about the daily HPTDC bus in Leh I was told it only ran 1 or 2 days a week, so I ended up taking a share jeep. We actually passed the bus heading in the Leh direction on our way to Manali, somewhere between Keylong & Jispa & it didn't even look half full.
Unless you have plenty of time & a very loose schedule I would not risk just turning up at Keylong. I'm not certain but I imagine you would be able to find out about & book the bus through HPTDC in Shimla,i'm sure someone else here will be able to confirm this.
The 1st week in sept is a great time to go, as this is when the crowds start to leave Leh & also the 15 day festival starts in Leh on sept 1st.
Are you flying back or going on to Kashmir? The reason I ask is the official date for the road closing back to Manali is sept 15th although sometimes it can stay open until mid oct depending on weather conditions.  KK

[kullukid]

Here are details of HPTDC's Manali office:

THE MALL, MANALI-175131
Tel(01902)253531, Fax (01902)252325
E-mail: mktmnl@Sancharnet.in
I think they have an office in Janpath in Delhi you could probably pre-book there.    KK

[sonomama]

Thank you for your detailed information, kullukid!

So I should be worried not about a crowded bus but the completely opposite thing, NO BUS! I'll ask HPTDC about the bus schedule. I hope my schedule fits theirs, but if it doesn't I'll try pre-booking a seat or change my schedule.

Whew, I'm glad I asked! Thank you very much!

kullukid, on Jul 19 2006, 06:00 PM, said:

Are you flying back or going on to Kashmir? The reason I ask is the official date for the road closing back to Manali is sept 15th although sometimes it can stay open until mid oct depending on weather conditions.  KK

I'll be flying back to Delhi, so there's no worry about the road being closed.

This time I chose the Spiti route because I wanted to visit the Tabo gompa, but I'd very much like to try the Srinagar route someday, too.

Sonomama

[sanjay]

Last month I took a bus of HRTC(road transport) not Tourism from Keylong to Leh.No probs at all.
But still if u fail..just look at those Jeeps comes down from Leh..someone may allow a pick up..thats India
smiles
sanjay

[AvidTrekker]

TREKKING??

Don't go all the way to Keylong.

Get a mule wallah at Losar [just below Kunzum La] and do the three day easy trek from Losar to Sarchu via the picturesque Chandra Tal.  You will get such mule wallahs at Kibber.  There is a jeep track going up to Chandra Tal.  Who knows, another jeep track may take you all the way to Sarchu.  

In any case, its an easy and pleasurable trek.  All the buses and jeeps halt overnight at Pang or Sarchu before going to Leh.  You can actually take your pick as to which bus or share-jeep you want to take.

PS... even if you go to Keylong, there are enuff share jeeps... so don't worry.

[sonomama]

Thank you for your advice, sanjay and AvidTrekker!

AvidTrekker, on Jul 20 2006, 01:04 AM, said:

TREKKING??

Don't go all the way to Keylong.

Get a mule wallah at Losar [just below Kunzum La] and do the three day easy trek from Losar to Sarchu via the picturesque Chandra Tal.  You will get such mule wallahs at Kibber.  There is a jeep track going up to Chandra Tal.  Who knows, another jeep track may take you all the way to Sarchu.

No. Sadly, it's not going to be a trek, at least this time. My trekking experience is limited to Japanese mountains, of which we have a lot because more than 60% of our land is covered with mountains, but even our highest mountain is only about 3,700 m high, and I've no experience going up higher than 3,300 m. I'll take it easy this time (I'll only take a sleeping bag with me, no tent or other trekking gear) to go and see how my body reacts to 4 - 5,000 m in altitude. A mule ride sounds fantastic, though. Maybe next time.

I'm kind of a people-watching buff, preferring public transportation to private one, so first I'll look for a bus, whether HPTDC or HPRC, and if I can't find one, I'll take a share jeep or hitch a ride on a truck.

Sonomama

[Mount Cleverest]

Sonomama,
Avid is right, Keylong to Leh will not be a problem at all, there are enough jeeps running on this route..day in and day out.

Since you mentioned your keen interest in Tabo Monastery, I must tell you that the gompa is a photographer's delight..its quite magnificent, but you will need a permit to pohotograph. This permit is available in Delhi so make sure u get it before u reach Tabo..unlike me  

[sonomama]

Mount Cleverest, on Jul 20 2006, 01:19 PM, said:

Since you mentioned your keen interest in Tabo Monastery, I must tell you that the gompa is a photographer's delight..its quite magnificent, but you will need a permit to pohotograph. This permit is available in Delhi so make sure u get it before u reach Tabo..unlike me  

I'm not sure if I can get a permit because I'm going to stay only half day in Delhi. Besides that, I'm a lousy photographer .  But Tibetan Buddhism is one of the major research subjects among Buddhism scholars in Japan, and it seems like the Tabo gompa has been photographed from every possible angle inside out by the Japanese monks, researchers and professional photographers who visited there. If I can't get a permit, or can't take good pictures even if I have the permit, those photos will help me remember what I saw, I guess.

Sonomama

[AvidTrekker]

Sonomama,

If you are a people watcher, I suggest you go to Manali.  Its a very "touristy" place where you can find all varieties of strange tourists from many countries.  

There is a direct bus from Kaza to Manali ... 12 hrs ride...  but you already know that.

Stay in Manali for two days...  its quite pleasant.

Then, book your seat on any bus from Manali to Leh.

TREKKING:

If you are already in Kaza and Kibber, you will have acclimatized to the high altitude.  Doing the Losar to Chandra Tal to Sarchu trek will be quite easy....  many Indians do it [even those who are not that very fit].  You will be able to arrange some trekking agency who will provide you with the whole package [tent, food, mule etc] such that you will be carrying ONLY the essential stuff [ food water and warm clothes ] There are many in Kaza.  Its not that difficult at all.  People do Losar to Chandra tal in a jeep....  so the climb is quite gradual for the human.  I am not trying to con you into trekking...  just keep an open mind about it....  its not really difficult... just keep drinking lots of water and ensure that your pee is colourless...  you wont get altitude sickness.

[sonomama]

AvidTrekker, on Jul 24 2006, 02:19 AM, said:

If you are already in Kaza and Kibber, you will have acclimatized to the high altitude.

You think so? That's what I expected when I decided to take the roundabout Spiti route to Leh. Thank you for your backup! Well, I'll see what I can do about trekking.

Sonomama