Vir Sanghvi: Rude Food - Hyderabad Diary:
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...........................................This time I am back in Hyderabad without a political or rock and roll agenda. I am accompanied by my Discovery Travel and Living crew and we are shooting for our episode on biryani. We all know the legends by now. Though the Mughal court based in Delhi invented most of the great dishes of modern north Indian cuisine, these were preserved by the satraps after the decline of the Mughal Empire following Aurangzeb.
Thus, Lucknow is a better example of Mughal court cuisine than Delhi. And the same is true of Hyderabad, where the Nizam-ul-Mulk, the Mughal Governor of the Deccan, finally declared himself independent and came eventually to be known as His Exalted Highness, The Nizam of Hyderabad.
Part of the research for our biryani episode has led us to Hyderabad. We all know that the kuchcha biryani of Hyderabad is justly famous. Many people argue that it is the only true biryani. The biryanis of Lucknow, they say, are no more than pulaos: combinations of cooked rice and cooked meat. The Hyderabadi biryani, on the other hand, uses raw rice and raw meat cooked together. Thus, it is a complete dish, unlike the Awadhi pretender. Soon after I get to Hyderabad, I am delighted to find that nearly every dhaba and restaurant has a sign outside reading: "Biryani served here".....................................................
................................................................What a shame! And here I was, looking for a democratic dish!
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http://blogs.hindust...diary/#more-151
Lucknow Diary:
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The great biryani search continues. But Lucknow, it turns out, is pulao country. It is also the place for outstanding kababs and kormas. And it has the best chaat in the entire country
I went to Lucknow as part of the great biryani search. But all controversies about whether Lucknow made a biryani or a pulao were quickly settled. Every single person I met in Lucknow was clear that Lucknow only dealt in pulao, not in biryani.
But why then did so many restaurants advertise that they served Lucknowi biryani even in Lucknow itself? And what's the difference between a pulao and a biryani anyway?
The answers seem to be shaded in grey rather than black and white. There is no clear distinction between a biryani and a pulao unless you take the Hyderabadi line that only a biryani made with raw (rather than cooked) meat is the real thing. In Lucknow as in so many other places, I have decided that biryani and pulao exist in a continuum. Some versions are clearly biryani and some are clearly pulao but the distinction appears to be the spiciness and the wetness of the final dish. Between these two extremes are many many stages and whether you use the term biryani or prefer pulao seems to be a largely subjective decision..............................................................
http://blogs.hindust...diary/#more-186
Edited by Sekhar, 21 July 2009 - 09:30 PM.