24 replies to this topic

[vandy]

After a succesfull episode with the Gulab Jamuns, I am now going to have a crack at Rusgullas.

Wish me luck. Rasgulla is my favourite Indian sweet.

Seen a good video on how to make these delightfull little balls of bliss.

vandy

[Chetan]

Go for it vandy !

[Sekhar]

Good luck Vandy!

Hope the hyperbole elsewhere has not confused you!

[Gautam]

Good luck Vandy!

Hope the hyperbole elsewhere has not confused you!

Vandy,

Like baking, rasgulla is simple once you adhere strictly to some principles, and do not get waylaid by many voices.

First, get good whole milk that is not homogenized, about 5.5 % fat, like Jersey milk. This gives youthe right combination of solids and fats so that when you are mashing upthe chhana, the particles becoe the right size, consistency and whatever is needed to make a non-chewy, non-squeaky product.

Do not "curdle" the milk with a "hard" acid like lemon juice or at a high temperature, i.e. boiling or close to it. 95-100C. If you use slightly sour plain yoghurt, say 200-300 grams per kilograms of milk, and beat yoghurt well,start incorportingat 82C and gradually let come to 85-87C. You will see the chhana SLOWLY, VERY SLOWLY, & almost painfully begin to separate. This is in contadistinction to HARD & HOT where you have the satisfaction or relief of watching the milk curdle immediately into gobbets and the whey turn chartreuse. [Were you making savory dishes, add some salt to the yoghurt--it helps the proteins "salt out"].

You may line a strainer or chinese hat with muslin or clean old cotton cloth and ladle the whey+ chhana into it, after making sure all the milk has curdled.

Let drain with the force of gravity acting as the sole pull and the weight of the chhana allowing their own drainage.

When they are at blood heat, or a little lower to the touch, they are ready for mashing. In Calcutta or India, since the ambient temperatures are usually above 25C, even more than 30C, the warmth of the hands + air temp on hard wood boards or marble keeps the temperature of the chhana perfect for developing the right structures. In colder rooms, you may have to keep an eye on this.

Use the ball of flesh under your thumb in long, flairing sweeps to smear and mash the chhana lumps down a marble pastry board if you have one. Immediately you will find your palms shining with butterfat, and the aroma of buttterfat penetrating your nose, conquering the milky smell of the casein. Yippee,you are on the right track. This conching process is so important. Forget the hyperbole & self-doubts and just focus , carefully using that precious ball of flesh to smear in a long smooth PULLING motion away from you.

Some add a tiny amount of sooji as a binding agent.

[In a completely different style, the %sooji is increased until the rosogolla becomes dense-textured and capable of soaking up rasa, the syrup. Actually, this is the UR-FORM, and although folks in Orissa claim to have invented rosogolla, they are dead wrong. Let me explain why. Rosogolla WAS the RAW form of a gulab jamun like sweet, also ancient despite claims to the contrary. Llike its pan-Indian cousins, it had in Bengal a heavy sooji% binding khoya + the Bengali addition of chhana. Khoya is VERY expensive,and is sought to be reduced proportionally to the wet, heavier chhana. Anyway, even though confectioners are a "clean" caste, orthodox will not purchase fried food from them, but cooked sandesh & boiled sweets are ok. Hence, a sooji-chhana ball was boiled too, as a gulab jamun substitute. In fact, north of Calcutta into Nadia & Bhatpara, this form reigns supreme. In Calcutta, the 2 forms got "tarted up" with haute cuisine pretensions, in the late 19th century.]

The problem with videos, Vandy, is that they never have to subject themselves to judgment: does their food really taste as good as it looks? What has happened between what was shown and what was ATTEMPTED? Important difference. Nothing goes on air live!!

Be it Manjula or Kurma, abundant self-confidence and chutzpah on the part of some, need not necessarily help with guiding people over the pitfalls. Sometimes, like Yajnapatni's recipe for sooji halwa, VERY IMPORTANT modifications are suggested based on long practical experience. BTW, if you are curious, ask her to detail her methods. She is well-versed in temple cookery and was taught by YAMUNA DEVI.

Anyway, after you get your "dough" please do not forget what many videos do. Break sugar cubes in thirds or fourths. Make a little hollow in the ball. You pinch off a dough piece and with great gentleness yet a firm hand shape it in your palms. Dimple deeply, stuff its heart with the all-important sugar cube fragment, and regenerate your sphere. This is the time when the correct fat content, correct curdling agent and correct temperature etc. will come into play. You will have a soft, moist pliant ball that will work with you, not fight you.

Make that light syrup with the merest hint of rose petals. Indian rose water sold in groceries is not very nice, maybe just synthetic or half & half? If you can get better, only then use the barest hint. The syrup should be very light and not too sweet.

You will have great success in your first attempt. Immediately, do a second run. It fixes certain parameters into your cooking memory, and you quickly and subconsciously make improvements over the first.

There is rasgulla prepared all over India as a "Bengali" sweet. And there is roshogolla prepared in fewer than 4 places in Calcutta, NOT including KCDAS, the fully deserve the hyperbole from those who care about this particular art form. In this I beg to differ from my friend Shekhar. Why are some Sauternes prized so highly and why have only some vintners managed to produce the truly exceptional? Can generation after generation be so wrong?

Fads like Cabbage Patch dolls wither away. But some arts remain elusive. Not unreachable. Here in upstate NY, there is a gentleman who makes ROSHOGOLLA, nearly equivalent to the best I have tasted.This is a feat 99.9 % of the Bengali sweet shops in Calcutta cannot achieve. Merely by careful attention to detail.

Just by being ordinarily attentive, Bengali housewives make excellent rosogolla, better than 80% of the sweet shops. So will you, Vandy, on your first try!!

[vandy]

Thanks Gautam, very precise matey.

Will give it a go in the next couple of days.

Drooling just thinking about it.

My only concern is that the local milk here is Homogenised ?


vandy

[Gautam]

Thanks Gautam, very precise matey.

Will give it a go in the next couple of days.

Drooling just thinking about it.

My only concern is that the local milk here is Homogenised ?


vandy

No worries!! One day, I shall briefly describe how COW milk is structured and the chemistry that leads to curdling. It is simple & beautiful. If I am being too simplistic,it is not because Iamtalking down to you, Vandy, but there are many who are seized with an irrational terror of "science", although they will see that the principles and mechanism are based quite on common sense.

Special secretory cells process blood & "secrete" milk into the free space of the udder. Broadly, milk consists of a watery fraction, a protein fraction and a fat fraction. The fats come out of the cell like tiny (round) ball bearings, each one packaged in part of the cell membrane involved in squeezing them out.

We know oil & water do not mix! Fat & the watery fraction in milk have different densities; so all the fat globules want to rise to the surface! When chilled, as must happen in modern delivery systems, there is a immuno-protein present in milk [remember, milk is there to nourish & protect teeny hapless calves, not delight Bangalis!!] that clings to the surface of the fat globules, allowing hundreds of globules to join hands and do a Mexican wave! This makes cream form quickly, a nice layer on top, and watery milk below.

The powers-that-be find such random socialization by fat beings quite displeasing. They break up the size of the happy globules, small & large and impose strict uniformity. Now their density has changed and so has the nature of the membrane packaging them. The tendency to "cream" has been abolished. Thank goodness, most of us cannot hear fat globules [or people, for that matter] silently scream.

Anyway, fats & fat globules interact with milk protein in curdled chhana in a way analogous to fat or shortening in wheat flour: flour dough is made less stretchy, and the dough protein " window" cannot form. Bread bakers, however, work hi-protein dough until they can stretch it so fine, a translucent WINDOW appears, held together by muscles of gluten.

That is why I spoke about COW MILK and 5.5-6% fat. Cow milk has some proteins missing in buffalo, which also has a higher fat%.

Enough for today, I think!!

Edited by Gautam, 08 June 2010 - 11:05 AM.

[Gautam]

The secret to understanding milk protein lies with teeth and bones! We know how "hard" teeth & bones are: hominid remains from millions of years ago are largely bits of skull, teeth and bones!! Teeth & bones are made of calcium phosphate. This is a chemical that is very, very insoluble in water. The solubility product constant of [Ca-- PO] is 10 exp (-) 31; i.e. it can sit in water, and very few molecules will be released into the liquid. Taken another way, in a watery environment, e.g. milk, this calcium phosphate will tend to form an insoluble precipitate. However, calves must get huge quantities of it, because they very rapidly are building lots of bones. Like many herbivores of the plains, running by the young animals is necessary if they are not to be left behind or need to accelerate for short spurts to avoid even small predators.

Calcium PO4 is transported to babies via the structures of milk proteins, that they also need to grow tissue. The way they are transported is through special protein structures called MICELLES created out of MICELLE PROTEINS.These are about 80% of all protein in milk.

Next are the WHEY PROTEINS, those that live in the whey, outside the cage-like structures called Micelles/sub-micelles.

A final group that I just made up is called the OTHERS: enzymes and others. They make up a small percentage of the milk solids compared to the Micelle & Whey proteins.

Micelle Proteins.

There are 4 in number, with different functions & properties: alpha s1 & s2 caseins, Beta casein & Kappa-casein [which stabilizes all the rest]




A micelle is a cage made up of thousands of smaller cages of proteins joined together by "beams" of calcium phosphate.

I will offer an picture that is technically inaccurate but perfectly conveys the science of milk proteins. Imagine standing inside a giant geodesic dome. There are beams connecting each point to the other and midway between EACH BEAM there is a JOINT. On one side of the joint is a calcium, on the other a phosphorus. If you break each joint, the beams will give way and the whole cage or dome collapse .

Salt

Acid

Heat

in additive amounts are factors that will break the calcium-phosphate joint (and also change the electrical chemistry) that causes these micelles to collapse. The proteins that are holding up points of the micelle are released and clump together.

When acidity reaches the value of pH 4.6, these changes happen; heat encourages the reaction. We do not add salt for rasgulla but do for paneer. Now we know WHY.

Edited by Gautam, 08 June 2010 - 11:09 AM.

[Gautam]

http://www.khanapaka...4D029&zoneid=11

Hi Vandy,

If you are prepared to sit through 2 segments of meaty recipe demos [excellent recipes BTW], the 3rd segment is an interesting take on rasmalai [roshomaalai in Bangala] ; thickened [milk + half & half ] in which mini-rasgullas are gently simmered, the whole very gently flavored with the highest quality rose petals or Bulgarian pure Rosa alba attar dipped on a needle tip. Please do not use bad commercial rose water. Slivered,lightly roasted unsalted pistachios to generously garnish.

Here is a Pakistani version that does away with the cumbersome chhana. They use milk powder & eggs! I am not sure whether the milk powder is non-fat or full-fat.

The segment is in Urdu. I would have translated but my sound drivers are down, for reasons unknown [possibly updates from MS that come unbidden in the night].

One more:

https://khanapakana....1436A&zoneid=12

Cham cham & rasmalai.

Good demo of curdling milk at LOW temperatures and the importance of bringing chhana down to Calcutta ambient air temps rapidly!! i.e. near body heat !

Edited by Gautam, 14 June 2010 - 08:45 AM.

[vandy]

Finally had a go at making Rosgoolas, Turned out not too bad for my first attempt.

Could have been a lot Spongier though. Any tips appreciated.

Not sure if I used too much pressure whilst rolling the balls. http://www.gourmetin...tyle_emoticons/default/goodjob.gif

I did knead the Paneer for quite some time as per instructions.

Will have another crack soon.

vandy.

Attached Images

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[Gautam]

Vandy,


They look really excellent!! I would say in the high 90s out of 100! This is JUST your first try, remember? Everything becomes better & better with practice. Also, sponginess not the whole story with roshogolla, but the total texture & mouthfeel. KCDAS make very spongy but overall mediocre roshogolla, poor in butterfat, texture and finesse.



I have posted some videos of a Pakistani confectioner making chhana, producing chamcham etc. in the rasgulla thread. Please go through them with someone familiar with the language. There are many useful pointers there. Please let me know what problems you are experiencing following him. We can work through those areas together. Kurma is more of a show-off than a competent cook; he leaves MANY crucial issues uncovered, possibly because he is unaware of them. If you follow Kurma & Manjula, they are excellent primers. Thereafter, gaining experience you may need to seek to broaden your knowledge base from other sources, e.g. the Pakistani videos.



Also, in the Gulab Jamun video with the sooji recipe, the lady demonstrates a particular philosophy of gentle, firm rolling between the palms having first pressed the dough into a UFO shape.The Pakistani confectioner reiterates the method. That will help you avoid cracks & fissures.



Another thing about sponginess: the thickness of the syrup should match the tiny labyrinth of canals [diameter wise] with respect to penetration: too thick, and you will have chewier consistency. A pressure cooker with the weight taken OFF creates the right vapor pressure to cook the syrup INTO the balls quickly & efficiently, esp. at altitudes! I found this out living on mountains 5000-8000 feet!! I am sorry I did not have thermometers at the time to measure the temperature of the syrup or a refractometer to measure degrees Brix. We used finger & thumb and One taar [ thread] ,2 threads, the subjective flow or "hanging"/ "dripping" from a ladle, to measure viscosity.

Edited by Gautam, 21 June 2010 - 11:29 PM.

[Chetan]

Awesome great pic as well.

(Moved the above Two posts from Gulab Jamun Topic to this one , which is where i guess you guys intended it to be ? )

[vandy]

Thanks people for your encouragement.

Is it Crucial to cook rosgoolas in a Pressure Cooker ? I do not have one, but if necessery I'll buy one.

I think I also made the Syrup a bit too thick, Personally I'd rather it thinner so it's not so sickly.


vandy

[Gautam]

<br>Thanks people for your encouragement.<br><br> Is it Crucial to cook rosgoolas in a Pressure Cooker ?&nbsp;&nbsp;I do not have one, but if necessery&nbsp;&nbsp;I'll buy one.<br><br> I think I also made the Syrup a bit too thick, Personally I'd rather it thinner so it's not so sickly.<br><br><br> vandy<br>

<br><br>NO NO not at ALL!! I just mentioned a pressure cooker to suggest 2 things: <br><br>1) in high or semi-high altitudes,&nbsp;&nbsp;ordinary desi type PC helps , minus the WEIGHT, e.g. Colorado, UTAH, AZ, etc. where ppl might think, what's going wrong with my rasgullas? Nothing, your boiling point has lowered owing to elevation!<br><br>2) even elsewhere i.e sea level, as also in making idlis, the PC environment, MINUS THE WEIGHT, creates a&nbsp;&nbsp;bit of slightly high pressure steam that seems to force syrup etc. into the rasgulla fast, gives a good sponge.<br><br>BUT no need to buy a gadget!&nbsp;&nbsp;just cover, with a space left for steam to escape upwards. Brisk heat.<br><br>Syrupneeds to be thin.In the rasgulla family,&nbsp;&nbsp;sponge rasgulla has the thinnest, moving up to the thicker types of rasgulla, rajbhog,&nbsp;&nbsp;then chamcham etc. Since these are specialized things, I wish I had the wits to get the syrup temps.maybe this summer I shall try to get at least one set. Meanwhile, please let us go through the tutorial videos, one by one, beginning with Manjula and ending with the Pakistani series. How about that? You will have 4 rasgulla sessions under your belt then?<br><br>Oh, I may have miscommunicated my point about kneading firmly,determinedly, with concentration with the ball of flesh at the base of your thumb AND kneading TOO LONG, overkneading. A&nbsp;&nbsp;does not equal B. it is something like the analogy of folding in egg whites: determined, thorough, but not too much to break the structure.<br><br>In chhana the lumps have to mashed until the proteins and fats come to a particle size that confer the right mouthfeel, &amp; hold together in the right labyrinth of channels that admit syrup of a certain viscosity and swell up to a right degree. That's the goal. We use a tiny amount of binder like sooji, the tiniest amount possible, to create a film of starch gel amongst all this milk protein and fat, a gauze of starch holding together the swelling balloon like a bubble gum.<br><br>g<br><br>http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=acROvuObr-Q<br><br>Cons:<br><br>1) Her milk choice&nbsp;&nbsp;&amp; curdling technique are very poor.<br><br>2) "always served chilled" NEVER NEVER NEVER; too long to explain. Chilling hardens texture. I don't want to argue, please yourself.&nbsp;&nbsp;<br><br>3) ""not cooked in center" "can never wrong"&nbsp;&nbsp;ha ha<br><br>4) misses crucial sugar cube technique<br><br>Pros:<br><br>1) Kneading technique reveals glimmers of enlightenment-- watch carefully<br><br>2) Making balls-- good technique, a bit ungentle though.<br><br>3) Sugar syrup: good proportion, light.<br><br>4) Good pressure cooker technique -unfussy.&nbsp;&nbsp;You can double the boiling time, without pressure cooker.<br><br><br>http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ckj8FWjrO-I&amp;feature=related<br><br>Our Tambrahm friend gets his sugar cubes right!! <br><br>Trust a BANGALI who has eaten more roshogolla than is good for him or the universe: spherical shape DO NOT MAKE the roshogolla. NEVER EVER CHILL!<br><br>When they are all misshapen and WARM, that is when they are at their PRIME. SIXTY ROSHOGOLLA are a respectable number for a respectable Bangali gourmand at a sitting. You can only do this when they are more than blood warm. Plus they need accompaniments..... but nuff said. Where is JD when you need him?<br><br>Have you noticed something weird? All the videos teaching Bangali roshogolla, explicitly naming the Bangali bit,have every ethnic group but a Bangali teaching the how-tos . They get some things right but crucial things rong as well, from the insufferable Kurma with the Gleaming Gloat, who knows NOTHING ABOUT BANGALI COOKERY, NOTHING.<br><br> is our Tambrahm friend making paneer. Being too smart, he forgets that paneer is not the specific type of chhana used for roshogolla.<br><br>These are the types of facile assumptions that cause a genre of sweets named "Bengali Sweets" to be produced all over India that give a nod to their namesake but are very very different from the original. "Good enough" in someone's estimation soon turns into a theater of the absurd.<br>

[vandy]

Thanks Gautam, very helpfull matey.

One other thing the recipe I used mentions a tablespoon of Maida, I know this is flour BUT which one ? Plain or Self Raising flour,

I googled at it said that Maida is fererred to as Universal Flour by Western Chefs.


vandy

[Termz]

Finally had a go at making Rosgoolas, Turned out not too bad for my first attempt.

Rasgullas look too good vandy. Nice effort.

[Gautam]

Thanks Gautam, very helpfull matey.

One other thing the recipe I used mentions a tablespoon of Maida, I know this is flour BUT which one ? Plain or Self Raising flour,

I googled at it said that Maida is fererred to as Universal Flour by Western Chefs.


vandy

I think MAIDA may be a bit finer than US ALL-Purpose flour but I am not sure. You can use PLAIN white flour or wheat semolina. As I explained, the purpose is to create a sort of starch film sticking the protein and fat granules together just enough but also letting them swell in an ordered, football-like fashion, the starch swelling in the boiling syrup along with them.

As Termz mentions, your first try was better than at least 80% of the professional sweet shops in Calcutta, and better than 90% of all homemade rasgulla in Bengal.

Let us know how you get on in urdu. It would be really great if we together could go through the techniques demonstrated by the professional Pakistani confectioner. His strong points are

1) the slow curdling of the milk

2) the cool-down phase

3) the resting phase

4) the gentle sieving

5) no pressure, gravity draining

Milk has has structure, that I might have described before, of 2 general classes of proteins.

One class, called micelle proteins, form cage-like structures to contain calcium and phosphate, that otherwise would become insoluble. Their function is to carry themselves +these vital minerals to calves.

The other general class contains all the rest of the proteins, with many important tasks, like immunity, etc. but which have not this cage structure and are dispersed in the watery phase of the milk.

Our aim is to denature or change the structure of both classes of proteins and try to recover most of them as milk solids along with the milk fat.

This happens by adding heat to 80C and/or acidity until the pH is lowered to 4.6.

If we had accurate,cheap pH meters, just as we do cheap digital thermometers [Taylors, US$20, with probe for turkey, meats, oven, etc.], it would really help.

Gentler Organic acids like yoghurt create soft pliable chhana that make spongy rasgulla, unlike harder acids like lemon juice, vinegar, straight tartaric or citric acid. Yoghurt mixed with these is an excellent compromise.

Whole milk + 1/5 volume half & half heat to 85-87C

Add 1/5 volume well-beaten yoghurt, mixed with pinch of tartaric acid, at 15-25C.

Stir gently once or twice

Yoghurt should begin cooling and curdling milk, bringing temp. to 70-75C.

Let rest w/o stirring, for curds to coalesce.

Edited by Gautam, 23 June 2010 - 05:49 AM.

[Gautam]

Dr. Khatwani has many things correct BUT he is playing on much experience. He is playing with another thing, REETHA, a saponin, a detergent, used for a very particular purpose by professionals. Used a bit this way or that, it will turn everything so terribly bitter!! He DOES not indicate quantities.He used 1/2 kg milk, yet i see him boiling 2 BIG reetha fruit. I tsp. reetha water for 2kg milk is more than enough. There are many gaps in this generally good video, and his kneading technique needs improvement. Can you tell me why?

Bague & Le Maitre knows. There are temperature differences between the finger tips and the ball below the thumb. In French Pastry, the goal is NOT to heat chilled flour and butter, so they work quickly with finger tips, fork or pastry cutter. Here, the goal is to use the temperature of the ball of flesh to achieve a particular liquid crystal.

There is reason WHY Calcutta temperatures, Calcutta artisans, Indian rosewood and ebony plates are used for rosogolla, marble for sandesh of certain types!! Note the young impostor below**.There is a semi- expert professional at work, whose hands have been photographed, while the fool natters on. The kneading technique is for mass-produced roshogolla, no finesse!! But note the wood.

I get frustrated because I do know a true expert. These are the very people who refuse to talk or appear before a camera, leaving the poseurs a field day. Ask JD about his run-ins with the big names of Indian cooking! Whom will people consult for their firm, Kalra or JD? Whom will WaPO call?

[Gautam]

Khatwani, part 2.




** Here is an idiot who has NO IDEA about what he is talking! These people should be criminally prosecuted. Fools , upstarts, given fancy hats and placed in front of a camera.


I am SO IMPRESSED by the Pakistani videos: thoroughly professional, EXPERT, THOROUGHLY COURTEOUS: our Indian food presenters could learn a lot, from A-Z. Effusive praise does not come easily from me!!!

Edited by Gautam, 23 June 2010 - 06:45 AM.

[Gautam]

Heya VANDY!!

Make some easy-peasy faux ABCD faux RASMALAI for Mrs. E. and share some happy memories with her -- its cold in Upside down Perth now, time to get those muffin pans OUT!!

You know that song "Santa Baby"? Well, put that on!

Get some cans of condensed milk, empty thm into regular whole milk and set that over a low simmer with some green cardamom; keep some rose water handy, if you want, or a pinch of good saffron. Chop som roasted pistachios,and you are all set.

BTW, minus the aromatics, this formula is super for Bengali tangerine payasam. Peel tangerine segments and cut their membranes, pulling back to free juice vesicles; carefully tease these unbroken into a bowl, in clumps. After you milk +condensed milk + green cardamom base has thickened to your liking, shut off heat. When off simmer, add the tangerines and fold in. Enjoy, barely warm.


http://enjoyindianfo...Bengali Cuisine

http://www.bongcookb...-deepavali.html

[jyotirmoy]

Gautam bhai, I have seen roshogollas being steamed in large karahis covered with Shal leaves. What is the science behind this? The leaves impart a faint flavour I think. Many sweet makers add Keora to flavour Roshogollas which I don't like.

About the upstarts it is not just gastronomy, in all fields like literature, music, films name any, these TV starers and page 3 adorners are plenty. During our young days at our weekend adda place New Cathay bar in Chowringhee we had a self proclaimed film critic who knew all about Holywood and film making. One evening he was shooting his mouth off telling us how the people of Holywood make great films while Indian makers come no where near the and innovative camera angles and shots used by them. He seemed to know all the who is who of Holywood but failed to recognise Ritwik da who was present there. After some time Ritwik da banged his glass on the table and lugged at him shouting..
"Ei je shukorer chana, un panjoore bembhodatti, boro ee gyan ditesho.. ja ja oi dhanga lok tak e jiggesh koira ash kano shey Pather Panchali te kash bon e Duuga r mookh take long shot e dhorey nee.... long shot maraitecho ar dasher lok e khishti ditecho......"
"Hey you the son of a pig bloody dirty goblin, go and ask that tall fellow why he didn't take a long shot of Durga's face in the field of Kash plants while making Pather Panchali, you are babbling about long shots and abusing your countrymen....."

Well Ritwik da could get away with practically any thing but I am a much much lesser soul. So when I spot these know alls I turn around and melt in the crowd. There is a saying in Bengali "Nara ek ber ee bel tolay e jaye" tha is, a bald man walks under a Bel tree only once. And I the bald man did just that, only once. Like a ripe Bel fruit landing on the head of a bald man I was heaped with humilation and the fans of that famous food specialist relished my humilation like a freshly baked muffin.